Índice
Do We Really Know How to Measure Waves?
If you’ve been surfing for a while or you’re just starting out, you’ve probably asked yourself: How are waves measured in surfing?
It’s an ongoing debate among surfers because there’s no single way to do it.
Some people measure waves from the base to the crest, others from the backside, and many simply exaggerate a little when talking about their session.
At Peña Txuri Surf Eskola, we know that understanding wave size will help you:
- Choose the right board.
- Prepare better before getting in the water.
- Improve your ocean reading skills.
So let’s break it down in a simple way. 
Ways to Measure Waves
Classic Method: Base to Crest
This is the most common method in Europe and the easiest to understand.
The wave is measured from its lowest point to its highest point.
Example:
If a wave is 2 meters from base to crest, in this system it is classified as a 2-meter wave.
Hawaiian Method: Measuring from the Back
Hawaiians have their own way of measuring waves. Instead of measuring from the base to the crest, they do it from the back of the wave.
Example:
A wave that is classified as 2 meters in the classic system would be around 1 meter in the Hawaiian system.
Using Body References
Many surfers prefer to describe waves using body references. You’ve probably heard terms like:
- Knee-high – ≈ 0.5 meters
- Waist-high – ≈ 1 meter
- Chest-high – ≈ 1.2 meters
- Head-high – ≈ 1.5 meters
- Overhead – Taller than head height
- Double overhead – Twice the surfer’s height
Photo: Edu Bartolome
Why Do Waves Sometimes Look Bigger or Smaller?
Perspective Can Be Deceiving
Tip: Before paddling out, observe the waves from different angles to get a real sense of their size.
Wave Thickness and Power
Example: A 1.5-meter wave at a mellow beach break is nothing like a 1.5-meter wave at a powerful reef break.
Surfer Exaggeration
Our advice: Forget about the numbers—what really matters is how you felt in the water.
Conclusion: Learn to Read the Ocean, Not Just Wave Size
More than just measuring waves, the key is to develop good ocean reading skills.
- Understand where and how waves break.
- Identify peaks and impact zones.
- Know how to move in the water to position yourself better.
Next time you paddle out, don’t just measure waves—analyze them… and most importantly, enjoy them.
